This Ramzan, here’s looking at the dastarkhwan-e-iftar!

The beginning of the holy month of Ramzan signifies the beginning of the devout’s month-long fast, during which they eat iftar (a meal after sunset) and mark the conclusion of their roza with a date. Most houses prepare for the fast in the day leading up to the opening time by setting out bowls of chaana chaat, fruit custard and chilled dahi vade. The smell of fried kebabs and samosas also wafts through the house. Aside from the standard menu, however, a growing number of people are trying novel iftar recipes.
Delhi-based author, podcaster, and MasterChef India 2016 finalist, Sadaf Hussain, reflects on the changing landscape of iftar, saying that while the iconic roads outside Jama Masjid remain synonymous with traditional iftar fare, “home-cooked meals have evolved into lighter options”. “In the present era of modern lifestyles and nuclear families, the trend leans towards healthier, smaller portions. I remember, as a kid we had 7-8 different dishes such as bhajiayas chana ghugni, shami, kheema and egg samose, kachhe kheeme ki tikkiyan and phulkiyaan with sharbats like Rooh Afza, aam or bael sharbat. With a modern lifestyle today, people don’t eat that much. They also like to have a lof of fruit.”
He adds, “Even in a simple fruit chaat, earlier we would have it sprinkled with chaat masala, but I prefer it with no salt or chaat masala. Today, we see a lot more Innovation takes centre stage, with cigar rolls replacing cutlets and online culinary exploration inspiring new dips and fusion desserts,” he adds.
Shabana Salauddin, home chef and founder of Ammeez Kitchen, Mumbai, also talks about cigar rolls.
She says, “Stuffed cigar rolls and phulkis (made of urad dal) take the spotlight this year. The cigar rolls, infused with kebab flavours and a hint of mint chutney, eliminate the need for additional dips. Meanwhile, phulkis, served with pani puri water, cater to the lactose intolerant with a refreshing twist.”
Yassir Siraj of Anisa’s Kitchen in Bengaluru notes that there’s a blend of traditional and innovative dishes: “We are seeing that classic cutlets and warki samosas coexist with modern choices like pita pockets, quiches, canapes with mushrooms and bruschetta topped with grilled chicken and steak. Also, the iftar table now welcomes biryani as people increasingly combine iftar and dinner. And desserts take a cooler turn with fruit trifles and pineapple and cherry squares.”
Addressing the time constraints of modern life, Mohammed Bhol of the House of Biryan in Mumbai introduces pre-packed iftar boxes.
“With rasta seekh, thread chicken and chicken gilafi, these boxes offer a taste of quintessential Mughlai flavours without the heaviness of traditional iftar dishes,” says Bhol.
Furthermore, the customised boxes also have global flavours. Chef Anees Khan of Star Anise Patisserie informs, “The younger generation is gravitating towards peri-peri, chipotle and harissa. We’ve seen a big demand for crepes, lasagnas, harissa wraps, muhammra, hummus, shawarmas, sheesh tawooks and tres leches cake.”